ROAST QUAIL STUFFED WITH PANCETTA, LACINATO KALE, AND SAGE

Roast Quail Stuffed with Pancetta, Lacinato Kale, and Sage image

When you buy your quail, try to get the biggest ones you can find, and make sure they're semi-boneless, meaning only the drumsticks and wings are left intact for the shape of the finished bird. When you're working with a bird this tiny, having someone else bone it is helpful. If you have mad knife skills, go for it. Using foil strips like huge twist ties helps set the shape of the quail as they cook, resulting in a pleasingly plump little package. Soft Polenta (page 66) and braised greens are the perfect accompaniments.

Yield serves 4

Number Of Ingredients 12

Ingredients

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more if needed
4 ounces pancetta, diced
1 large carrot, peeled and diced
2 stalks celery, diced
3 cloves garlic, sliced
1 bunch Lacinato kale, washed, stemmed, and torn into pieces
1 cup chicken stock
3 cups 1/2-inch cubes stale bread
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
6 leaves sage, roughly chopped
4 semi-boneless quail
4 teaspoons unsalted butter

Steps:

Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Warm 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat and add the pancetta. Cook until some of the fat renders, about 4 minutes. Add the carrot, celery, and garlic and sauté until tender but not colored, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the kale and sauté until just wilted, about 1 minute. Add the chicken stock and cook down until the liquid nearly evaporates and the mixture is thick, 3 to 4 minutes. Place the mixture in a large bowl with the bread cubes and toss to mix. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the sage and additional olive oil if necessary to moisten. Allow the mixture to cool before stuffing the birds.
Season each quail on both sides with salt and pepper. Pack the quail as tightly as possible, using about 1 cup of stuffing per bird. Tuck the wings under the bird behind the back. Bend one drumstick across the cavity opening, keeping the stuffing in place. Secure by tucking the tip under the skin. Cross the other drumstick over it so that the quail looks like it's doing yoga.
Tear off about 5 inches of foil. Fold the long end up about 1 inch, crease, then keep folding and creasing until you have a reinforced band 1 inch tall and as long as your box of foil. Wrap the band around the quail to secure, twisting the ends. Trim off extra foil with scissors. Make 3 more bands the same way and repeat with the remaining birds.
Divide the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil between two 10-inch ovenproof sauté pans, and warm over high heat. Brown the quail on each side, about 1 minute each, including the foil-wrapped sides. Once you turn the quail to brown the top, top each with 1 teaspoon butter and put the pans in the oven. After 5 minutes, turn each quail so that the top of the bird is up. Roast for 5 minutes longer, or until a metal skewer inserted into the middle of the stuffing feels warm against your lip.
Once the quail are done, transfer to a board and remove the foil. Return to the pan to crisp the skin and brown the sides that were under the foil strips. Serve.