PANE SICILIANO

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This is one of the breakthrough breads that taught me the value of combining large portions of pre-ferment with overnight cold fermentation. Semolina is the gritty, sandy flour milled from durum wheat. (Durum is the strain of wheat most closely identified with pasta.) It is a hard, high-protein wheat, but it is not high in gluten. The golden color is mainly due to a high proportion of beta-carotene, which contributes both aroma and flavor as well as the appealing hue. You may substitute a finer grind of this flour, called fancy durum (sometimes labeled "extra fancy durum"). When it is labeled "fancy durum," the flour is milled to the consistency of regular bread flour. This is the grind used in pasta and also used in the 100 percent durum bread called pugliese (page 222). This version of pane siciliano consists of 40 percent semolina flour and 60 percent high-gluten or bread flour. The finished loaf has a beautiful blistered crust, not too crackly, and a crumb with large, irregular holes, open to the same degree as good French or Italian bread. The sweetness and nutty quality of the semolina, and the complementary flavor of the sesame-seed garnish make this one of my absolute favorite breads.

Yield makes 3 loaves

Number Of Ingredients 9

3 cups (16 ounces) pâte fermentée
1 3/4 cups (8 ounces) unbleached high-gluten or bread flour
1 3/4 cups (8 ounces) semolina flour
1 1/4 teaspoons (.31 ounce) salt
1 1/4 teaspoons (.14 ounce) instant yeast
2 tablespoons (1 ounce) olive oil
1 tablespoon (.75 ounce) honey
1 1/4 to 1 1/2 cups (10 to 12 ounces) water, lukewarm (90° to 100°F)
Natural, brown, and/or black sesame seeds for topping

Steps:

  • Remove the pâte fermentée from the refrigerator 1 hour before making the dough to take off the chill. Cut it into about 10 small pieces with a pastry scraper or serrated knife. Cover with a towel or plastic wrap and let sit for 1 hour to take off the chill.
  • Stir together the high-gluten flour, semolina flour, salt, and yeast in a 4-quart bowl (or in the bowl of an electric mixer). Add the pâte fermentée pieces, the oil, honey, and 1 1/4 cups water. Stir with a large spoon until the dough forms a ball (or mix on low speed with the paddle attachment). If the dough seems too stiff, dribble in water 1 teaspoon at a time until all the flour is gathered and the dough feels soft and pliable. If the dough seems sticky don't worry; you can adjust the flour while kneading or mixing.
  • Sprinkle bread flour on the counter, transfer the dough to the counter, and knead (or mix on medium-low speed with the dough hook). Add flour as needed, sprinkling in a small amount at a time to make a smooth dough that is tacky but not sticky and has the same pliability and suppleness as French bread dough. Knead for about 10 minutes (or for 6 to 8 minutes by machine). The dough should pass the windowpane test (page 58) and register 77° to 81°F. Form the dough into a ball, lightly oil a large bowl, and transfer the dough to the bowl, rolling it to coat it with oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap.
  • Ferment at room temperature for about 2 hours, or until the dough doubles in size.
  • Gently divide the dough into 3 equal pieces. Shape as for baguettes (page 74), extending each piece to about 24 inches in length and taking care to degas the dough as little as possible. Then, working from each end simultaneously, coil the dough toward the center, forming an S shape (see image below). Line a sheet pan with baking parchment and sprinkle some semolina flour on the baking parchment. Place each loaf on the pan (or set up 1 loaf each on individual pans). Mist the loaves with water and sprinkle sesame seeds on the top of each loaf. Then mist the tops with vegetable spray oil and place the pan(s) in a food-grade plastic bag or loosely cover with plastic wrap.
  • Place the pan(s) in the refrigerator overnight.
  • The next day, remove the pan(s) from the refrigerator and determine whether the loaves have risen enough to bake or if they need additional proofing time. Gently poke the dough. If it springs back quickly, leave the pan(s) out, still covered, for a couple of hours, or until it wakes up and rises more. The dough should stay dimpled when poked, and the loaves should be nearly twice as large as when first shaped.
  • Prepare the oven for hearth baking as described on pages 91-94, making sure to put an empty steam pan in place. You do not need a baking stone. Preheat the oven to 500°F with the oven rack on the middle shelf.
  • Uncover the bread dough and place the pan(s) in the oven. Pour 1 cup hot water into the steam pan and close the door. After 30 seconds, spray the oven walls with water and close the door. Repeat twice more at 30-second intervals. After the final spray, lower the oven setting to 450°F and bake for about 15 minutes. If the loaves are touching, gently separate them. Rotate the pan(s) 180 degrees for even baking and continue baking for 10 to 15 minutes more, or until the loaves are a rich golden brown all over. If there are still light or white sections of the dough, extend the baking time for a few extra minutes to maximize color and flavor. The internal temperature of the bread should register 200° to 205°F.
  • Remove the pan from the oven and transfer the loaves to a cooling rack. Cool for at least 45 minutes before serving. One way to slice this bread is to cut it lengthwise down the middle. Lay the cut side on the cutting board to stabilize the loaf, and then slice into 3/4-inch-thick slices across the width, either straight down or on a slight diagonal.
  • Enriched, standard dough; indirect method; commercial yeast
  • Day 1: 1 1/4 hours pâte fermentée
  • Day 2: 1 hour to de-chill pâte fermentée; 12 to 15 minutes mixing; 3 hours fermentation, shaping, and panning
  • Day 3: 0 to 2 hours proofing; 30 to 35 minutes baking
  • This dough can be used for many purposes beyond the traditional S-shaped loaf. It can be used as a pizza dough (it makes enough for six 8-ounce pizza crusts), for small rolls of any shape, and is also great for breadsticks.
  • The bread can, in theory, be baked on the same day that it is shaped, but the difference in flavor and texture is dramatic if it is held overnight in the refrigerator (retarding method), as advised in the instructions. The overnight step makes this a 3-day process, though the final day is simply to bake the bread. Those who tested this recipe say the results are worth the delayed gratification.
  • Pane Siciliano %
  • Pâte fermentée: 100%
  • High-gluten flour: 50%
  • Semolina flour: 50%
  • Salt: 1.9%
  • Instant yeast: .88%
  • Olive oil: 6.3%
  • Honey: 4.7%
  • Water (approx.): 68.8%
  • Total: 282.6%

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