Steps:
- For the mushroom filling: Place the dried porcini mushrooms in a large bowl; add the boiling water and the soy and Worcestershire sauces. Set aside. Combine the portobello and shiitake mushrooms in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse until finely chopped. Transfer to a separate large bowl and add the sliced cremini mushrooms. Melt the butter with the olive oil over medium heat in a large saucepan. Meanwhile, combine the carrots, onion and celery in the bowl of a food processor; pulse (about 20 times) until they are just finely chopped (but have not released a great amount of liquid), then add to the saucepan. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes; do not let the vegetables brown. Season with salt and pepper and stir to mix well. Add the chopped garlic and the portobello-shiitake-cremini mushroom mixture to the vegetables. Cook for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is absorbed. Add the tomato paste and milk, stirring to mix well, and cook for 10 minutes or until the liquid is absorbed. Add the wine and cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally; it will be absorbed. Use a slotted spoon to remove the reconstituted porcini mushrooms from their soaking liquid; reserve the liquid. Rinse the mushrooms to remove any grit, then coarsely chop them and add to the saucepan. Strain the mushrooms' soaking liquid through a fine-mesh strainer or several layers of cheesecloth, then add it to the saucepan. Add the diced tomatoes and their juice, the bouquet garni and sugar. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, uncovered, for 2 to 3 hours, stirring occasionally, until the filling is a deep, rich brown and very thick. Use strips of paper towel from time to time to skim off any fat that rises to the surface of the mixture. Discard the bouquet garni when the filling is done. For the bechamel sauce (which can be done while the filling is cooking): Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. (see intro).
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