BOLOGNESE SAUCE

Steps:

• To prepare the meat and pestata: Put all 4 pounds of ground meat into a large mixing bowl. With your fingers, crumble and loosen it all up. Pour the white wine over the meat, and work it all through your fingers again so it's evenly moistened.
• To make the pestata: Cut the bacon or pancetta slices into 1-inch pieces, and put them in the bowl of a food processor with the peeled garlic. Process them into a fine paste.
• Cooking the sauce base: Pour the olive oil into the heavy saucepan, and scrape in all of the pestata. Set the pan over medium-high heat, break up the pestata, and stir it around the pan bottom to start rendering the fat. Cook for 3 minutes or more, stirring often, until the bacon and garlic are sizzling and aromatic and there's a good deal of fat in the pan.
• Stir the minced onions into the fat, and cook for a couple of minutes, until sizzling and starting to sweat. Stir in the celery and carrot, and cook the vegetables until wilted and golden, stirring frequently and thoroughly over medium-high heat, about 5 minutes or more.
• Turn the heat up a notch, push the vegetables off to the side, and plop all the meat into the pan; sprinkle the salt on. Let the meat brown for a few minutes on the pan bottom, then stir, spread, and toss with a sturdy spoon, mixing it into the vegetables; make sure every bit of meat browns and begins releasing fat and juices. Soon the meat liquid will almost cover the meat itself. Cook at high heat, stirring often, until all that liquid has disappeared, even in the bottom of the pan. This will take 1/2 hour to 45 minutes, depending on the heat and width of the pan. Stir occasionally, and as the liquid level diminishes, lower the heat so the meat doesn't burn.
• When all the meat liquid has been cooked off, pour in the 2 cups red wine. Raise the heat if you've lowered it, and stir the meat as the wine comes to a boil. Cook until the wine has almost completely evaporated, about 5 minutes. Now drop the 2 tablespoons tomato paste into a clear space on the pan bottom. Toast it for a minute in the hot spot, then stir to blend it with the meat, and let it caramelize for another 2 or 3 minutes.
• Pour in the crushed tomatoes, and stir; slosh out the tomato container with a cup of hot broth, and pour that in, too. Bring the liquid to a boil, stirring the meat, and let the liquid almost boil off, 5 minutes more.
• Pour in 2 cups of hot broth, stir well, and add more if needed to cover the meat. Bring it to an active simmer, cover the pan, and adjust the heat to maintain slow, steady cooking, with small bubbles perking all over the surface of the sauce.
• At this point, the Bolognese should cook for 3 hours. Check the pot every 20 minutes, and add hot broth as needed to cover the meat. The liquid level should be reducing by 1 1/2 to 2 cups between additions: if it's falling much faster, and it takes more than 2 cups to cover the meat, lower the heat to slow the evaporation. If the sauce level drops slowly or not at all, raise the heat and set the cover ajar to speed its concentration. Stir well at every addition.
• During the final cooking, you want to reduce the level of the liquid-at the end, the meat should no longer be covered with sauce but appear suspended in a thick, flowing medium. If the meat is still submerged by a lot of liquid, remove the cover to cook off moisture quickly.
• A few minutes before the end of cooking, taste a bit of meat and sauce, and add salt if you want. Grind 1 teaspoon of black pepper right into the sauce, stir it in, and cook about 5 minutes before removing the pan from the heat.
• If you'll be using the sauce right away, spoon off the fat from the surface, or stir it in as is done traditionally. Otherwise, let the sauce cool, then chill it thoroughly, and lift off the solidified fat. Store the sauce for several days in the refrigerator, or freeze it (in measured amounts for different dishes) for use within a few months.