Steps:
- Combine the sugar, nam pla, and 1/4 cup water in a skillet just large enough to hold the fish. Place over medium heat and cook, stirring infrequently, until the sugar melts and the mixture bubbles, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the lemongrass, garlic, and black pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 3 minutes more.
- Add the scallions, fish, and another 1/4 cup water. Cook over medium-high heat, turning the fish occasionally (if you're using fillets, turn it less often so that it doesn't break up), until the sauce is very thick and the fish cooked through, about 10 minutes. Taste, add salt if necessary, then garnish and serve.
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