ST. JOSEPH'S DAY CRULLERS

Steps:

• 1. In a 2-quart saucepan, combine the water, butter, salt, and sugar. Place the mixture over medium heat and bring to a simmer, stirring a few times. As soon as the liquid begins to boil (and the butter is completely melted), remove the pot from the heat. Add all the flour and stir very well and vigorously, until the mixture comes together as a dough.
• 2. Return the saucepan to low heat and stir until the mixture is very smooth, glossy, and begins to form a slight film on the bottom of the pan, about 3 minutes. (If using a nonstick pan, there will be no film formed as an indicator.)
• 3. Break the eggs, 1 at a time, into the dough, and, before adding the next, beat each egg in very well until it is incorporated into the dough and the dough has become smooth again. ( I use a handheld mixer because this is a tight dough and otherwise required considerable strength an stamina to beat it.) When all the eggs have been added, you should have a smooth, thick paste. It may be prepared a day ahead, but the zeppole should be fried within hours before eating them.
• 4. Cut the parchment paper into 12 4-inch squares.
• 5. Using a pastry bag or piping tube fitted with a 1/2-inch star tip (#6), pipe 3- to 3 1/2- inch circles of dough onto the parchment squares.
• 6. In a 10- to 12- inch skillet, heat 1/2 inch of oil to 375 to 380 degrees and fry the zeppole a couple or a few at a time, depending on the size of the skillet. Place the zeppole in the oil with the parchment on the top. Using tongs, remove the parchment paper after about 10 seconds. This will require a little up-and-down jiggling of the paper, and a motion of peeling the paper back and off the frying dough.
• The zeppole should not fry very fast. It should take more than a minute for the first side to become a medium golden. Do not let it get fully, deeply golden. You know the temperature is correct if, after turning the zeppole to the second side, the first fried, already golden side starts splitting open. This indicates that the center is cooking and expanding. Let the second side get golden, then turn over to finish the first side. If the temperature is correct - about 375 degrees - the whole process takes 3 to 4 minutes. Drain the zeppole well on absorbent paper before topping with pastry cream and serving.
• For the traditional St. Joseph's day presentation, arrange the zeppole on a serving plate. Pipe or spoon into the center of each a couple of tablespoons of pastry cream, then garnish with a small spoonful of sour cherry preserves or a candied cherry.