Steps:
- Slice out the fibrous inner stem of the greens and discard. Coarsely chop, making sure there are no long strands, and then submerge the greens in cold water. Swish them around with your hands to remove any dirt, then transfer to a colander. Repeat if the greens are very sandy. Make sure to lift the greens out, don't pour them into the colander, or all of the dirt will come out with them. There is no need to dry the greens, because the water clinging to the greens helps in the cooking process.
- Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat and add the olive oil. Throw in half of the greens, sauté them for 30 seconds until they've shrunk a little, then add the other half. Sauté until the leaves are tender but still bright green, about 3 minutes, adding a dash of salt as you cook. Add the garlic and sauté for 1 minute more. Turn off the heat and stir in the red pepper flakes if you're using them.
- Serve hot, seasoned with lemon juice and freshly ground black pepper.
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