SAUTéED EGGPLANT

Steps:

• Peel the eggplant if you like. If you have any doubt about its quality, cut it into 1-inch cubes and place them in a colander. Sprinkle liberally with salt, at least a tablespoon; toss the eggplant to distribute the salt. Let sit in a sink or over a bowl, undisturbed, for at least 30 and preferably 60 minutes. It will shed a good deal of liquid. Squeeze out as much liquid as you can, rinse with fresh water, and pat dry.
• Put the oil and all but 1/2 teaspoon of the garlic in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Two minutes later, add the eggplant; cook, stirring occasionally, until the eggplant is tender and lightly browned, 15 minutes or longer, adjusting the heat as necessary so the eggplant browns as quickly as possible without burning.
• Add the remaining garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute more; taste and adjust the seasoning, then stir in a handful of parsley and cook for a few more seconds. Garnish with some more parsley and serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.
• Stewed Eggplant with Tomatoes (France)
• This is good with a few capers, too: In step 3, before adding the garlic, stir in about 2 cups chopped tomatoes (ripe, fresh ones are best, but canned are acceptable). Cook for about 10 more minutes, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes break up, then add the garlic and proceed.
• Crunchy Eggplant
• In step 3, before adding the garlic, stir in about 1/2 cup bread crumbs, preferably fresh (page 580). Cook for about a minute, until they begin to brown, then add the garlic.
• Basic Sautéed Eggplant, Indian Style
• In step 2, use butter if you prefer; add 2 cups sliced onion and 1 or more stemmed, seeded, and minced fresh green chiles, like jalapeños. Cook until the onion softens, then add the eggplant and proceed. In step 3, add 1 teaspoon peeled and minced fresh ginger along with the garlic and use cilantro and mint in place of the parsley or basil.
• Eggplant with Peppers and Yogurt (Middle East)
• In step 2, cook 2 bell peppers-red, yellow, green, or a combination (or you can use mild poblano chiles), cored, seeded, and cut into strips-with the eggplant, until tender. In step 3, mix the remaining garlic with 1 cup yogurt, beaten until smooth, a tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil, and some salt and pepper. Remove the eggplant and peppers from the pan and pour this sauce over them; serve hot.
• Eggplant with Pine Nuts (Italy)
• Just before serving, lightly brown 1/4 cup pine nuts in 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil; stir this into the cooked eggplant.