POACHED OYSTERS WITH LEEKS AND BACON

Poached Oysters with Leeks and Bacon image

This sumptuous appetizer stars oysters in an elegant and creamy guise. The oyster mixture spills over the sides of a thick triangle of toasted, buttered bread, and the whole thing is topped off with smoky bacon and snipped chives. The flavors of this dish are great with champagne and have a holiday feel, but it's delicious anytime you can get great oysters. You could also toss the warm sauté with bow tie pasta for a decidedly rich Sunday supper.

Yield makes 4 servings

Number Of Ingredients 16

Ingredients

2 strips thick-sliced bacon (preferably applewood-smoked), diced
1/4 cup white wine or vermouth
1 pint shucked oysters, drained and rinsed
1 tablespoon butter, plus softened butter for spreading
1/4 cup finely chopped onion
1/4 cup finely chopped celery
2-3 leeks, washed and thinly sliced (about 1 cup) (see technique for cleaning leeks, p. 109)
2 tablespoons flour
1/4 cup milk
1/2 cup cream
1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme or sage
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Salt and pepper
Hot sauce
4 thick slices (1/2 inch) good-quality white bread or brioche, halved into triangles
Minced scallions or snipped fresh chives, for garnish

Steps:

In a large skillet, cook the bacon until crispy. Transfer it to a plate topped with paper towels, then drain the skillet of all but 1 tablespoon fat; set the skillet aside.
Heat the white wine in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. When it starts to simmer, add the oysters and poach just until the edges start to curl, about 4 minutes (reduce the heat if the simmer gets too lively). Drain the oysters in a fine colander placed over a large bowl, reserving the poaching liquid.
Reheat the skillet with bacon fat over medium-high heat and add the 1 tablespoon butter. When the foaming subsides, add the onion, celery, and leeks and cook until fragrant and softened, 3-4 minutes. Sprinkle the vegetables with flour, then whisk in the reserved oyster poaching liquid. Simmer over medium heat, continuously whisking, for 3 minutes. Add the milk, cream, and herb and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently until thickened and creamy, about 5 minutes. Add the lemon juice and salt, pepper, and hot sauce to taste.
When the sauce is thick enough to coat a spoon, remove it from the heat and keep warm. Toast the bread; spread with softened butter and place it on a platter or individual plates. Stir the oysters into the sauce and warm through, over low heat. To serve, spoon the oysters over the toast and sprinkle with bacon. Top with green onions or chives, if desired.
I've eaten oysters all over the world. When it comes to slurping them raw, from the half shell, I love oysters from the Pacific (like the Japanese varieties), because they taste briny, like the ocean. But when it comes to cooking, nothing beats Louisiana oysters. They come from the brackish waters where the salt water of the Gulf mingles with the fresh water of the bayou and rivers, so they have a milder flavor that blends better with other ingredients. Because Louisiana oysters are larger, they're less likely to overcook in a poaching pan. I may be biased, but I definitely think they're the most versatile oysters in the kitchen. For my favorite sources, see p. 384.