LA LENGUA

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La Lengua image

Tongue-la lengua, in Spanish-is a very popular food in Mexico, especially in the central and northern parts of the country, where good grazing land supported a large ranching culture. On ranches, most prime cuts are sold to markets, and the lesser cuts, like tongue, are cooked for the ranch hands. The use of tongue and other secondary cuts of meat, often overlooked, is at the core of peasant cooking. Made rich with brines, marinades, chiles, complex spice mixtures, and rich accompanying sauces, these preparations are some of the most flavorful in all of Latin American cuisine. Tongue is naturally succulent, but needs slow cooking to become really tender and luscious. The flavor is pretty neutral, so this filling has lots of additions to spice it up. A bright salsa is the finishing touch, much like the hot spicy-sweet mustard that was slathered on the tongue sandwiches that I used to eat at my old neighborhood delicatessens.

Yield makes 14 tacos

Number Of Ingredients 17

2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 medium white onions, cut into 1/4-inch dice
2 medium carrots, thinly sliced
2 large stalks celery, thinly sliced
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
2 bay leaves
6 cups beef broth
6 dried de árbol chiles, stemmed, seeded, sliced open, and flattened
4 dried guajillo chiles, stemmed, seeded, sliced open, and flattened
2 dried ancho chiles, stemmed, seeded, sliced open, and flattened
2 whole cloves
8 whole allspice berries
2 teaspoons dried Mexican oregano
1 teaspoon cumin seed, toasted and ground (page 164)
1 beef tongue (about 3 1/2 pounds), trimmed
14 (5 1/2-inch) soft yellow corn tortillas (page 13), for serving
Garnish: Pickled vegetables, pickled jalapeños, sprigs of fresh cilantro

Steps:

  • Preheat the oven to 325°F. In a large, heavy, ovenproof braising pan, heat the oil on medium heat. Sauté the onions, carrots, and celery until the onions are just translucent, about 7 minutes. Add all the remaining ingredients except tortillas and garnish, cover tightly with aluminum foil, and place in the oven. Braise the tongue until the meat is very tender and forms cracks in the surface, about 3 hours.
  • Remove the tongue from the pan, discarding the other ingredients, and allow to cool. Using a paring knife, carefully peel off the skin (which should remove easily); try to leave the tongue intact. Cut the meat into 1/2-inch-thick slices and cut again into 1/3-inch-thick matchsticks (fine julienne) and place in a bowl. Serve right away or keep warm until ready to serve.
  • To serve, lay the tortillas side by side, open face and overlapping on a platter. Divide the filling equally between the tortillas and top with garnish and salsa. Grab, fold, and eat right away. Or build your own taco: lay a tortilla, open face, in one hand. Spoon on some filling, top with garnish and salsa, fold, and eat right away.

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