Steps:
- Season the fatty side of the brisket with 1 teaspoon of the salt and 1/2 teaspoon of the pepper. Flip the brisket over.
- On a cutting board, chop the garlic. Add 1 teaspoon of the salt while continuing to chop, stopping occasionally to mash the garlic to a paste by holding your knife almost flat against the board with the dull side facing you and sliding it across the garlic to crush it. Rub the garlic paste into the non-fatty side of the brisket and season it with the remaining 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Starting with the thin side, roll the brisket up tight, jelly-roll style, with the fat on the outside, and tie it firmly with kitchen twine.
- Heat a Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium-high heat and add 1 tablespoon of the oil. Brown the brisket evenly on all sides, about 20 minutes, and then transfer it to a platter.
- Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 225°F.
- Discard any remaining oil in the pot, wipe it out with a paper towel, and return the pot to the stove over medium-low heat. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons oil, the onions, the sugar, and the remaining 2 teaspoons salt. Cook, stirring often, for 15 to 20 minutes, until the onions are completely soft and caramelized.
- Remove the pot from the heat and add 1 cup water. Return the brisket to the pot, and use a slotted spoon to spread some of the onions on top to keep it moist. Tent it with a piece of parchment or aluminum foil by placing it on top and then crimping it snugly around the roast so that the edges nearly meet the liquid, and then cover the pot with a tight-fitting lid. Put the pot in the oven and braise for 7 hours, until the brisket is tender.
- Transfer the brisket to a warm place and use a food mill to puree the onions. Return the onion puree to the pot and heat gently, adding a little water if necessary to make a thick but pourable gravy. Slice the brisket and serve with the onion gravy.
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