CAULIFLOWER "BISTECCHE" WITH PANCETTA AND CAPER BERRIES

Steps:

• Rinse salt-packed capers in a sieve and transfer to a small bowl. Soak capers in water to cover by 2 inches for 30 minutes. Drain and repeat soaking. Drain again, then rinse and pat dry.
• While capers soak, put oven racks in upper and lower thirds of oven and preheat oven to 350°F.
• Cook pancetta in 1 dry 12-inch skillet over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until crisp, about 10 minutes, then transfer with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain. Pour off fat and wipe skillet clean.
• Stir together raisins and lemon juice in a small bowl.
• Trim cauliflower stalk flush with base of crown, discarding stalk, then trim any leaves. Put cauliflower crown, stalk side down, on a cutting board. Cut a 1-inch slice from 2 opposite sides of crown and discard, then cut crown lengthwise into 4 "steaks," each about 3/4 to 1 inch wide.
• Heat 1 tablespoon oil, 1 tablespoon butter, 1/8 teaspoon salt, and a pinch each of sugar and pepper in each 12-inch skillet over moderate heat, swirling skillets occasionally, until butter begins to brown. Add 2 cauliflower steaks to each skillet and lightly season with salt and pepper, then cook until undersides are golden, about 4 minutes.
• Transfer skillets to oven and roast cauliflower, without turning, switching position of skillets halfway through roasting, until cauliflower is just tender and undersides are golden brown, 8 to 15 minutes (depending on thickness).
• While cauliflower roasts, bring water just to a boil in a 1-quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat, then stir in pancetta, capers, raisins with lemon juice, and caper berries. Add remaining 1/2 stick butter and stir until incorporated. Remove from heat and season with pepper.
• Carefully invert cauliflower steaks with a spatula onto a platter and spoon sauce over them.
• *Available at specialty foods shops and chefshop.com