Steps:
- Arrange chicken legs in a large baking dish or pie plate and season with 1 Tbsp. salt and a very generous amount of pepper, turning to get both sides. Let sit 15 minutes.
- Finely grate lemon zest directly over chicken and turn to coat; set lemon aside for making the dressing. Add 1½ cups buttermilk and 1 Tbsp. sesame oil and turn again to coat. Cover and chill at least 3 hours and up to 12 hours, turning occasionally if possible (don't get up in the middle of the night or anything).
- Meanwhile, whisk yogurt, remaining ½ cup buttermilk, and remaining 1 tsp. sesame oil in a small bowl to combine. Cut reserved lemon in half and squeeze in the juice (you should get about 2 Tbsp.). Season with salt and pepper and a few dashes of hot sauce and whisk again to combine. Cover dressing and chill while the chicken marinates.
- Preheat oven to 475°. Let chicken sit out at room temperature while the oven comes up to temperature. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper or foil (to make cleanup easier) and set a wire rack inside. Remove chicken from marinade, letting excess drip off, and place, skin side up, on prepared rack; discard marinade. Roast chicken until skin is a deep brown and crisp and a thermometer inserted to thickest part of thigh registers 165°, 25-30 minutes.
- Meanwhile, heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Add leeks and toss to coat. Season with salt and cook, tossing occasionally, until dark brown around the edges but not completely softened, 6-8 minutes. If the pan looks dry or scorched toward the end of cooking, add a splash of water to get things moving again.
- Stir half of chives into dressing, then spread dressing onto a platter or 4 plates. Spoon leek mixture over and top with chicken. Scatter remaining chives over.
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