BLACK FOREST CAKE

Black Forest Cake image

Under all the whipped cream icing of the Black Forest cake are three layers of chocolate génoise soaked in kirsch. My father finished his génoise by hand, using a huge whisk with widely spaced wires to fold the flour and then the butter into the batter with big, efficient strokes so it would not deflate. On a daily basis, he would grab one of us kids to help. He sifted the flour, cocoa, and salt onto a sheet of parchment paper. When he was ready, my brother or I would hold the parchment paper folded above the bowl and tap the flour over the batter while Dad folded it in, telling us to tap faster or slower. As with many fancy cakes, the assembly is easy; it just takes lots of words to describe. Once you have baked the cake, you have completed the part that needs the greatest attention. The cakes flavor develops as the kirsch soaks into the layers. Give the finished cake a minimum of four hours in the refrigerator before serving, but its even better made a whole day in advance. My recipe uses home-preserved sour cherries. But if you want to make this cake and did not start in June during cherry season, you still have plenty of options. You can use fresh or frozen fruit or shop for jars of preserved sour cherries such as morello and amarena cherries. Depending on what you find, the syrup will contain more or less sugar, so be sure to taste first and adjust your ingredients accordingly. (See the Note on the next page for details on substitutions.) A good Black Forest cake should be very moist and have a distinct kirsch flavor. So be sure to use good-quality kirsch.

Provided by Hubert Keller

Categories Cake Dessert Bake Christmas Winter Christmas Eve Party Vegetarian Pescatarian Peanut Free Tree Nut Free Soy Free Kosher

Yield Serves 8

Number Of Ingredients 21

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Ingredients

Cake
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled, plus more for buttering cake pan
1/2 cup (2 1/2 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour plus more for dusting cake pan
1/4 cup Dutch-process cocoa
Pinch of salt
6 large eggs, at room temperature
3/4 cup (4 3/4 ounces) superfine sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Syrup
1/2 cup sugar
1 ounce (2 tablespoons) kirsch
Assembly
4 cups heavy cream
1 cup (4 ounces) powdered sugar
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
2 cups Spirited Sour Cherries , drained, or a 24-ounce jar sour cherries such as morello or amarena
jar sour cherries such as morello or amarena
8 fresh cherries with stems (optional)
About 2 1/2 ounces dark chocolate (at least 60% cacao) in a single block
About 1/2 cup ground dark chocolate (at least 60% cacao) or chocolate cookie crumbs
Powdered sugar for dusting

Steps:

To Make the Cake:
Preheat the oven to 350°. Place the rack in the center of the oven. Butter and flour a 10-inch cake pan that is 3 inches deep such as a springform mold.
Sift the 1/2 cup flour, the cocoa, and the salt together onto a sheet of parchment paper and set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the eggs, sugar, and vanilla at high speed until the mixture has tripled in volume and is very thick, about 8 minutes. When the whisk is lifted, the batter will form a thick ribbon as it falls back into the bowl.
Lower the speed to stir and carefully tap the dry ingredients into the egg mixture. As soon as all the flour has been added to the eggs, stop the machine. Pour in the melted butter, making sure to leave the white, milky solids behind. With a large rubber spatula, using as few strokes as possible, finish folding the flour mixture and butter into the batter until evenly mixed.
Immediately scrape the batter into the prepared pan, place the pan on a baking sheet, and bake until the cake feels just firm to the touch, about 40 minutes. Transfer the cake to a rack and let it cool for about 5 minutes. Then turn the cake upside down onto a rack to cool. This will flatten the slightly domed top.
To Make the Syrup:
Place the sugar and 1/2 cup water in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring the mixture to a boil while stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the kirsch and remove from the heat. Pour the syrup into a small cup or bowl and set it aside.
To Assemble the Cake:
In a large bowl, whip the cream with the sugar and vanilla on medium-high speed until it holds firm peaks. Do not overbeat; the whipped cream should be smooth and firm. Divide the cream into 4 equal portions and set them aside. (This helps prevent getting to the last bit of decorating and discovering you have run out of cream.) Drain the cherries and divide them into 2 equal piles. Reserve 8 to 12 cherries to garnish the top of the cake if you do not have fresh cherries.
Place the cake on a work surface with its original top up. Trim off any hard crusts. With a long serrated knife, cut the cake horizontally into 3 even layers. Transfer the top layer to a serving plate, arranging it top side down. Brush it liberally with the syrup. With an offset spatula or rubber spatula, smooth on a 1/2-inch layer of whipped cream. Push the cream a little beyond the edge of the cake. (This prevents gaps when you settle the next layer on top.) Nestle half of the cherries into the whipped cream, scattering them evenly over the top.
Place the middle cake layer on top of the cherries, pressing it lightly into the whipped-cream layer. Brush with syrup, spread with whipped cream, and scatter the remaining half of the cherries over the cream.
Finally, add the last cake layer, cut side up, on top of the cherries, again settling it into the whipped-cream layer. Brush with syrup. With an icing spatula or a large rubber spatula, spread a thin layer of whipped cream over the top of the cake. Spread a thicker layer onto the sides.
Pastry shops add a decorative scalloped edge of ground dark chocolate around the base of the cake. Fill your cupped palm with some of the ground chocolate and lift and tilt it onto the base of the cake all around the bottom edge. Rotate the cake between handfulls. It's the heel of your hand that forms the scalloped edge.
Rotate the edge of a sharp knife against the block of chocolate to make curls or cut shavings with a vegetable peeler. Pile them on top of the cake.
Scoop the remaining whipped cream into a pastry bag fitted with a medium star tip. Pipe fat rosettes all around the top edge of the cake. Press a fresh or spirited cherry into the center of each rosette. Refrigerate the cake for at least 4 hours to let the flavors meld. Just before serving, dust the top with powdered sugar.
Alcohol-Free Variation
Use about 24 ounces of preserved sour cherries in syrup. Drain the cherries, reserving the syrup and cherries separately. In a small saucepan, bring to a boil 1/3 cup espresso or strong coffee, the reserved syrup, and 3/4 cup sugar (or to taste), stirring until the sugar dissolves. Remove from the heat and reserve until needed.
Bûche de Noël de Henri Variation
For our Christmas menu in 2010, we used Black Forest flavors for our bûche de Noël. We baked the génoise as a sheet cake, soaked it with the kirsch syrup, spread it thickly with the whipped cream, and then scattered the cherries over the cream before rolling up the cake. We iced it with the traditional chocolate buttercream. This makes a lighter-than-usual bûche, and our guests cleaned their plates.