CHILLED TOMATO CONSOMMé
Categories Soup/Stew Egg Onion Tomato Appetizer Vegetarian Fennel Summer Chill Parsley Gourmet Pescatarian Paleo Dairy Free Wheat/Gluten-Free Peanut Free Tree Nut Free Soy Free No Sugar Added Kosher
Yield Makes 6 servings (about 1 quart)
Number Of Ingredients 14
Steps:
- Cut fronds from fennel stalks and reserve. Cut whole fennel (with stalks) in half lengthwise and core. Separate layers, reserving 3 or 4 tender inner pieces, and coarsely chop remaining fennel, including stalks.
- Cook onions, garlic, and chopped fennel in oil in a 5- to 6-quart heavy pot over moderate heat, stirring frequently, until softened, 10 to 12 minutes. Stir in puréed tomato, 1 teaspoon sea salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, 20 minutes.
- Pour tomato mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into a 4-quart saucepan, pressing hard on solids and then discarding them, and bring tomato broth to a full boil.
- Whisk together egg whites, herbs, ice, remaining 1/2 teaspoon sea salt, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon pepper in a bowl until frothy, then quickly pour into boiling broth, whisking vigorously 2 or 3 times. (Egg mixture will rise to surface and form a "raft.") When broth returns to a simmer, find a place where bubbles break through raft and gently enlarge hole to the size of a ladle. Cook broth at a bare simmer, uncovered, without stirring (keep raft opening clear by gently spooning out any froth), until broth is clear, 15 to 20 minutes.
- Remove saucepan from heat and, disturbing raft as little as possible, carefully ladle out consommé through opening in raft, tilting saucepan as necessary, and transfer to cleaned fine-mesh sieve lined with a double layer of dampened paper towels set over a bowl or large glass measure. Discard raft. Chill consommé, uncovered, until cold, about 1 1/2 hours.
- Just before serving, season consommé with salt. Slice reserved tender fennel into thin slivers and toss with fennel fronds, pear tomatoes, and vinegar. Divide consommé and tomato salad among chilled bowls.
BEEF CONSOMMé
Consommer means "to accomplish" or "to finish" in French, and consommé is indeed a "finished" stock. (In a culinary context, one could say that to make a consommé is to bring out in full all of the flavors.) What gives consommé its purity and clarity is a bit of culinary magic: Egg whites (combined with mirepoix and ground meat) coagulate in the soup and rise to the top (forming a "raft"), drawing up any impurities that would otherwise cloud the stock. This mixture also infuses the broth with deeper flavor, as does an onion brûlé (or charred onion), which imparts deeper color to the broth. After an hour or two of simmering, the raft is also discarded, leaving behind a clear, intense broth. Consommé can be served either hot or cold, usually garnished in some way or another (there are literally hundreds employed in formal French cuisine); one of the more common embellishments is vegetables cut into julienne or brunoise (page 14), such as the blanched carrot and leek shown here.
Yield Serves 4 to 6
Number Of Ingredients 8
Steps:
- Prepare clarification mixture Pulse chopped onion, carrot, and celery in a food processor or mini-chopper until finely chopped. Whisk egg whites until frothy, then add ground beef and chopped vegetables and mix well with your hands. Cover and chill in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour (or overnight).
- Make onion brûlé Sear the remaining onion wedge in a small cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat on both cut sides until blackened, then coarsely chop.
- Clarify stock Pour stock into a stockpot. Remove the clarification mixture from the refrigerator and add the browned onion and the tomato, then add this mixture to the pot. Set over medium-high heat and whisk briskly until thoroughly incorporated with the stock. Use a wooden spoon to stir at a slower speed until the solids rise to the top, then stop stirring. Continue cooking until frothy bubbles start to form around the sides of the raft. Reduce heat to medium-low and use a spoon or a ladle to make a hole in the raft so the consommé can bubble freely, and you can see the color and clarity of the broth. At this point the broth should be clear; further simmering is to develop more flavor.
- Remove raft and strain consommé Cook for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, or until the raft starts to sink a bit. Ladle the consommé from the pot through the hole in the raft (or you can crack it at this point, since it has solidified) into a cheesecloth-lined sieve set over a heatproof container. Discard the raft. Then strain broth again, this time through a coffee filter. Remove fat by sweeping a paper towel across top of consommé several times. Reheat if necessary. Season with salt and garnish as desired. If not serving immediately, allow consommé to cool and then refrigerate overnight in an airtight container. Before using, remove and discard solidified fat that has accumulated at the top and reheat consommé over gentle heat, just until hot.
- Follow the directions above for beef consommé, substituting ground chicken and chicken stock for the ground beef and beef stock.
- Use only coarse salt to season consommé; iodized (table) salt will cause it to turn cloudy.
- The clarification mixture should be kept as cold as possible until needed (always add tomato, or other acidic ingredient, just before using, since it will cause the egg whites to coagulate too soon).
- Monitor the temperature of the consommé as it cooks to make sure it is at a gentle simmer.
CREATING A CONSOMMé WITH A RAFT
The principal behind a raft is that raw, denatured proteins attract cooked proteins. Egg whites, ground chicken, and the white mirepoix (the ingredients of the raft), are mixed together and then added to the cold chicken stock, and the mixture is then brought to a boil. Our instructor at the CIA called building a raft: A Test of...
Provided by Andy Anderson !
Categories Chicken Soups
Time 2h
Number Of Ingredients 13
Steps:
- 1. Chef's Note: The ingredients chosen for the raft will add flavor to the stock. For example, the choice of chicken thighs over white meat, will deepen the flavors in the stock, but will also create a darker consommé, which may not be desirable.
- 2. Chef's Note: You will need about 2.5 quarts of good, fresh chicken stock for this recipe. I usually make the chicken stock the day before, let cool in the refrigerator, and then build the raft the following day. My Hearty Chicken Stock recipe would be excellent for this consommé.
- 3. Combine the ground chicken and egg whites in a food processor, fitted with an S-blade, and mix until thoroughly incorporated. Chef's Note: A food processor is not a must have... An alternate would be to use a large mixing bowl, and beat away.
- 4. Add the chopped tomato, a good pinch of salt, and continue to beat away. Chef's Note: Why all the Beating? The agitation, plus the salt, and the acid in the tomato will denature the proteins, and that's essential to making the raft work properly.
- 5. Add the chopped onion, leek, celery, parsley stems, bay leaf, thyme sprigs, garlic, and peppercorns. Continue to beat until fully combined. The resulting mixture should resemble a big gloppy mess. Chef's Note: If you're using a mixing bowl, you'll want to beat for another 2 minutes... If you're using a food processor, about 30 seconds.
- 6. In a large pot, stir the mixture into the cold chicken stock, and then bring to a boil over high heat, stirring frequently. Chef's Note: This is your first test. If you don't keep the mixture active, it will stick to the bottom on the pot and burn... After it begins to boil, the mixture will float off the bottom of the pot, and you'll be safe.
- 7. When the mixture begins to boil, stop stirring, or you'll break the raft. Move the pot slightly off center of your burner, so that it's only boiling on one side. Allow it to boil over the raft, pushing it to the far side of the pot. This leaves an area of the boiling liquid exposed to that you can see the progress of the clarification.
- 8. Turn the heat to low, and keep the stock simmering. Chef's Note: During this time, you should taste and season. Salting at the end just makes it taste salty, salting while it's simmering makes is taste seasoned.
- 9. Continue to simmer for forty-five minutes to an hour and a half, or until the stock is perfectly clear.
- 10. Remove from the burner, and then strain the stock. Chef's Note: This is your second and last test... How to remove the clear liquid from the raft without breaking it. If you break it, will have to throw it away and begin the process all over.
- 11. Chef's Note: Straining Method # 1: Take the pot off the heat and wait about 15 minutes. As the liquid cools, the raft will quietly settle to the bottom. You can then carefully ladle the consommé through a fine-mesh sieve, lined with cheesecloth.
- 12. Chef's Note: Straining Method #2: Use the bowl of a ladle to carefully push the raft to the bottom, and then strain the golden liquid, as suggested in Method #1.
- 13. Plate/Present A good consommé in a nice clean white bowl with a few veggies makes for an excellent starter, at any meal.
- 14. Final Thoughts: A good four hours to make the stock, and another two hours to make the consommé... that's a lot of time, and effort. And let's not forget all the ingredients. Since the process takes so much time (but it's worth it), I usually increase the recipe to make a gallon, and freeze what I don't use. I use these ziplock containers, and it keeps for 4 months.
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