PAN-ROASTED SQUAB WITH SPRING GARLIC COMPOTE
Save this recipe for late February, when spring garlic first appears in markets. For this dish, it's best to use larger heads, planning on one large or two small heads per serving. Piecing out the squab makes for much easier eating and allows you to cook the different parts perfectly, with the added bonus that the wings and body add incredible depth and flavor to the sauce. If you think your knife skills aren't up to par, you can ask your butcher to do it for you, but be sure to reserve all the pieces. If your guests are big eaters, you might want to double the recipe to allow for one squab per person and serve as an entrée. Lentils would make a nice side.
Yield serves 4
Number Of Ingredients 10
Steps:
- Remove the breasts, thighs, and drumsticks from the squab and reserve. Using a large chef's knife, chop the bodies and wings into 3 or 4 pieces. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large saucepan over high heat. Add the squab bones and parts and sauté until well browned. Add the carrots, onion, and garlic cloves. Cook until softened and lightly colored, 6 to 8 minutes in all, then add 2 cups of the wine. Continue to cook until reduced by three-quarters, 6 to 8 minutes, then add the chicken stock. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for 1 hour. Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve over a bowl, pressing on the solids to extract all the liquid. You should end up with about 2 cups liquid. Discard the solids. Put the liquid in a clean saucepan and reduce until syrupy, or 1/4 cup total; the timing will vary depending on your stove and pan, but will be about 15 minutes.
- To make the compote, cut the spring garlic bulbs from the stems, then slice crosswise 1/8 inch thick. Film a sauté pan with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and heat over high heat. Fry the garlic until crisp and lightly browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Pour off the oil. Add the remaining 1 cup wine to the pan and cook over medium heat until reduced to about 2 tablespoons, about 10 minutes. Add the honey and cook until the mixture is thickened and coats the back of a spoon, 4 to 5 minutes. Reserve at room temperature.
- In a large sauté pan over high heat, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil on high heat and fry the squab breasts, thighs, and drumsticks skin-side down first, putting a light weight on the breasts or pressing with a spatula, for about 3 minutes. Turn the pieces and cook for 2 minutes longer, then turn once more to crisp the skin and finish cooking. Breasts should be served medium-rare, while thighs and drumsticks are cooked through. Allow to rest for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.
- When ready to serve, reheat the sauce and season with salt and pepper. Divide the compote among 4 plates and place the squab pieces on top. Spoon the sauce around the squab and serve.
SQUAB MARSALA
Steps:
- Coat a large saute pan with olive oil over high heat. Sprinkle the squab breasts and legs with salt and pepper. When the pan is hot, place the squab skin-side down into the pan and sear until golden and crispy, about 6 minutes. Flip and continue to cook until the squab is medium rare, 1 minute longer. Transfer to a plate to rest.
- Degrease the pan, leaving a couple tablespoons of fat. Add the shallots to the drippings in the pan and sprinkle with salt, scraping up the drippings with a wooden spoon. Saute the shallots until they begin to soften, 1 minute, and then add the mushrooms and saute until they just start to soften up.
- Carefully pour in the cognac off the heat, and then return the pan to the heat until the alcohol has completely cooked off and the pan is almost dry. Pour in the marsala and ignite again, allowing the wine to cook until the flame dies down. Add the chicken stock and simmer to reduce the sauce slightly, about 3 minutes.
- Return the squab to the pan and simmer gently to heat through, 1 minute. Plate 1 leg and breast per plate. Remove the sauce from the heat and stir in the creme fraiche and butter, whisking until just incorporated. Stir in the parsley and sage. Taste and adjust the seasoning, and then pour the sauce around the squab.
ROAST SQUABS WITH PORCINI AND COUNTRY BREAD SALAD
Active time: 1 3/4 hr Start to finish: 2 3/4 hr
Yield Makes 6 servings
Number Of Ingredients 11
Steps:
- Preheat oven to 450°F.
- Bring 2 cups water, garlic, and 1 teaspoon sea salt to a boil, then drain in a colander. Blanch garlic in same manner 2 more times.
- Cut bread into 1/4-inch-thick sticks and toast on a baking sheet in middle of oven until pale golden, about 6 minutes. Leave oven on.
- Peel stems of porcini with a sharp small knife just until white flesh is exposed, then quarter mushrooms lengthwise.
- Pat squabs dry and season generously inside and out with salt and pepper. Put a sprig of thyme in cavity of each squab and divide garlic confit among cavities. Tie legs of squabs together with kitchen string and fold wings back.
- Heat 2 tablespoons duck fat in a well-seasoned 10-inch cast-iron skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then brown squabs in 2 batches, turning, about 5 minutes, transferring to a plate and reserving skillet.
- Add 1 1/2 more tablespoons duck fat to skillet and sauté porcini in 2 batches over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, about 3 minutes (add another 1 1/2 tablespoons duck fat to skillet for second batch). Stir in blanched garlic, toasted bread, and salt and pepper to taste and remove from heat.
- Put a 13- by 9-inch metal baking pan on bottom rack of oven (to catch drips) and arrange squabs, breast sides up, in a small circle (without touching) on middle rack of oven directly above baking pan. Roast squabs, carefully basting once with remaining tablespoon duck fat, 15 minutes. Replace baking pan with skillet of bread salad, positioning it directly under birds. Roast squabs and bread salad until an instant-read thermometer inserted in fleshy part of a thigh (avoid bone) registers 155°F for medium meat and mushrooms in bread salad are tender, about 5 minutes. (If mushrooms are not tender, roast bread salad 5 to 8 minutes more.) Transfer squabs to a cutting board and let stand 5 minutes, then halve lengthwise with poultry shears or a sharp knife.
- Toss bread salad with parsley and lemon juice and serve with squabs.
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