Steps:
- In a very heavy-bottomed large saucepan with lots of room, melt the butter. If you have a heat diffuser, use that. Add the onion and a pinch of salt and saute gently for 2-3 minutes. Add the flour and stir well, never allowing the flour to brown. Switch to a whisk and slowly add half the milk while whisking constantly. Add all the cream while still whisking, then the rest of the milk. . Bring to a simmer, add the bay leaf, peppercorns, and cloves. Turn the heat as low as possible and simmer the sauce, whisking occasionally, for 30 minutes. In the meantime, boil some water, preheat the oven to 375, prepare the mushrooms or ham or both, mince your time, and grate the cheese. With a 10 minutes left for the sauce, cook the macaroni until tender, then drain and run cold water over it to prevent sticking. Remove the sauce from the heat and season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste. Strain it to remove the cloves and peppercorns, add the cheese, and whisk until it's all melted. . Add the macaroni, mushrooms, and ham, and stir to incorporate. You'll notice the sauce is very loose--the pasta will absord much of it in the oven. Pour into a 9 X 15 inch gratin dish, or individual large ramekins. Sprinkle with cheese, breadcrumbs, and thyme. Cook on a baking dish in case it bubbles over at 375 for 15-20 minutes. Turn on the broiler if it's not browned. Serve in its dish on the table
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