Steps:
- 1. Build a fire in your grill; when the coals are all covered with gray ash and the temperature is medium-hot (you can hold your hand 5 inches above the coals for 3 to 4 seconds), you are ready to cook. (For a gas grill, turn all burners to high, lower cover and heat for 15 minutes, then turn burners to medium-high.) 2. While fire heats, make the relish: In a small sauté pan, toast the cumin seeds, coriander seeds and mustard seeds over medium heat, shaking frequently to avoid burning, until they begin to darken slightly and you can smell them. Remove from heat, allow to cool slightly, then combine in a medium bowl with the tomato, cucumber, chile pepper, lemon juice, sugar and salt and pepper to taste. Toss gently to combine and set aside. 3. In the same small sauté pan, toast the turmeric, ginger, chile powder and curry powder over medium heat, shaking frequently to avoid burning, until mixture begins to darken slightly and you can smell it. Remove from heat, and allow to cool slightly. 4. Sprinkle chicken generously with salt and pepper, then rub toasted spices all over it, pressing gently so they adhere. 5. Put the thighs on the grill directly over the coals, skin down, and cook until skin is crisp, about 8 minutes. Flip and cook until there is no pink near the bone, 6 to 8 minutes. To check for doneness, cut into one thigh and peek. Remove from heat and serve with the relish.
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