SHAD ROE WITH SORREL SAUCE

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Shad Roe with Sorrel Sauce image

I had never cooked with sorrel until I worked with André Soltner on his Lutèce cookbook. He was then the devoted chef-owner of the restaurant, on East Fiftieth Street in Manhattan, but he never forgot his roots in Alsace. There, leafy green sorrel is common, and its tart flavor accents any number of dishes. So it was not surprising that when André was developing a sauce for that quintessential American specialty, shad roe, his secret ingredient was sorrel. However, sorrel was not so easy to find in markets in those days, and André would have to bring an armful of handpicked sorrel from his own garden in the Catskills down to the Lutèce kitchen, so as not to disappoint his loyal customers. Later, when my husband and I bought our summer place in the Northeast Kingdom of Vermont, we discovered that wild sorrel grew abundantly in the surrounding woods and in the garden. I even planted a cultivated variety to make sure we had enough, and I soon dubbed sorrel, along with gooseberries, the lemons of the North. And now that Lutèce is no more, and I can't enjoy a lunch there, I celebrate this spring delight by making myself André's delectable shad roe with sorrel sauce.

Number Of Ingredients 10

2 teaspoons butter
1 generous cup sorrel leaves
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Pinch of sugar
1/4 cup heavy cream
2 teaspoons butter
1 pair shad roe
A splash of milk
Flour
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Steps:

  • Melt the butter for the sauce in a small pan. Drop in the sorrel leaves, and
  • cook over medium heat, stirring now and then, until the liquid has evaporated.
  • The sorrel will turn a khaki color, but don't let that bother you. Season with salt and pepper and just a tiny pinch of sugar. Pour in the cream, and cook for about 5 minutes, until thickened. Keep warm.
  • Heat the remaining 2 teaspoons butter in a small skillet that will just hold the shad roe. Rub the milk over the roe, dredge in flour, season with salt and pepper, and slip the roe into the pan. Cook slowly for about 5 minutes, turning once. Arrange on a warm plate, and spoon the sauce around.

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