Steps:
- Preheat oven to 450°F.
- Simmer raisins and rum in a small saucepan, stirring occasionally, until rum is absorbed, about 5 minutes.
- Cut a very thin slice off bottom of each orange so it will stand without rolling. Cut a 3/4-inch-thick slice off top of each, removing any flesh from tops and reserving them. Remove as much flesh as possible from orange with a sharp knife and a spoon (reserving flesh for another use if desired), leaving an empty shell.
- Sift together flour, baking soda and powder, and salt. Beat butter and sugar in a large bowl with an electric mixer until light and fluffy. Add eggs 1 at a time, beating well after each addition, then beat in vanilla and zest. Alternately fold in flour mixture and buttermilk in batches, beginning and ending with flour mixture. Fold in raisins.
- Fill orange shells two-thirds full with batter and put tops in place. Wrap oranges individually in foil and arrange on a baking sheet. Bake in middle of oven 50 minutes.
- Transfer oranges in foil to a rack. Remove foil when cool enough to handle, then cool oranges on racks at least 15 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.
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