PINEAPPLE-GINGER MARMALADE

Steps:

• Cut the pineapple into 1/4- to 1/2-inch (6-mm to 1.5-cm) cubes. Cut the orange, unpeeled, into quarters. Slice each quarter as thinly as possible, then chop the slices into 1/4-inch (6-mm) bits.
• Put the chopped pineapple and orange in a large pot or a Dutch oven. Add the water, bring to a boil over high heat, then decrease the heat to medium-low and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover, and let stand at room temperature for at least 2 hours, or up to overnight.
• To finish the marmalade, add the sugar to the pineapple mixture, bring to a boil over medium-high heat, and cook until the mixture reaches the jelling point (use the wrinkle test, right, to judge when it's done).
• Stir in the candied ginger and rum, then ladle the marmalade into clean jars. Cover tightly, let cool, and refrigerate.
• Storage
• The marmalade will keep for at least 6 months in the refrigerator.
• the wrinkle test
• The sugar, moisture, and pectin content of fresh fruits is so variable that it's difficult to know exactly how long jam or marmalade must cook in order to gel. In my recipes, I shy away from giving cooking times because I don't want anyone setting the kitchen timer and walking away from a pot of simmering fruit only to come back to an unfortunate surprise. Rather than rely on cooking times and candy thermometers, I use the "wrinkle test" to test jams and marmalades. You'll need a cold plate for testing the preserves with the wrinkle test, so be sure to put one in the freezer before you start cooking.
• In most cases, it'll appear that not much is happening until 15 or 20 minutes into cooking. Then, the bubbles will get larger; this is when you should be more vigilant and stir the mixture, scraping the bottom of the pot to make sure nothing is sticking. When the juices become a thick, heavy syrup and the fruit mounds a bit is the point at which you should start checking for doneness using the wrinkle test: Turn off the heat and put a little spoonful of the preserves on the chilled plate. Return the plate to the freezer and, after a few minutes, nudge the jam with your finger. If it wrinkles, it's ready.
• If you'd prefer to use a candy thermometer, jam and marmalades set at about 220°F (105°C). Always clip the thermometer to the pot before cooking begins to avoid breakage that can result from temperature shock.