DUFF'S PASTA DOUGH

Steps:

• Mound the flour in the center of a counter or large cutting board. Make a well in the middle of the flour 3 to 4 inches wide. Crack the eggs into the well and add the yolks and salt. Using a fork, break the yolks and begin to beat the eggs as if you were making scrambled eggs.
• Continue stirring the eggs in large circles with the fork, slowly incorporating the flour from the inner edges of the well until the mixture becomes a thick mass and is difficult to stir, about 3 minutes. Using a bench scraper or rubber spatula, fold the loose flour from the edges into the thick mass, then knead until a smooth dough forms. Discard any excess flour.
• Shape the dough into a flat disk, wrap tightly with plastic wrap and let rest at room temperature for 30 minutes. (The dough can be made 1 day ahead. Store it in the refrigerator tightly wrapped and let it come to room temperature before rolling.)
• Secure the pasta attachment to a stand mixer or, if using a hand-crank machine, attach it to the counter. Set the machine to the widest setting. Unwrap the dough and cut it into 4 equal pieces. Wrap 3 of the pieces and set aside while you work with the remaining piece of dough.
• Flatten the dough into a rectangle and lightly dust it with flour. Roll it through the pasta machine at the widest setting. Fold the dough in thirds like a letter and feed it through the pasta machine. Repeat the folding and feeding of the dough through the machine 2 more times. (Folding and rolling it in this manner helps strengthen and smooth the dough.)
• Set the pasta machine to the next setting (one setting thinner than the widest). Flour the dough as needed and feed it through the machine. Repeat one more time.
• Adjust the machine to the next thinnest setting and feed the dough through 2 times. Continue changing the setting and feeding the dough through 2 times for each setting until you have fed the dough through the second-to-last setting. The sheet of pasta should be thin enough so that you can see your hand through it.
• To make pappardelle, cut the sheet crosswise into 10- to 12-inch-long pieces, then cut each piece with a chef's knife into 1-inch-wide noodles. Lightly toss the noodles with a little flour on a baking sheet to prevent sticking. Cover with a dry kitchen towel while you repeat the process with the remaining dough.
• To make hand-shaped fusilli, cut the sheet crosswise into 1/4-inch-wide strips. Wrap them around a thin dowel, skewer or chopstick, forming a corkscrew-like shape, then gently slide each one onto a baking sheet. Lightly toss the fusilli with a little flour to prevent sticking. Cover with a dry kitchen towel while you repeat the process with the remaining dough. (Making fusilli is great to do with kids as a group.)
• Cook the noodles in a large pot of boiling salted water until al dente, 3 to 4 minutes.