ASPARAGUS THREE WAYS: RAW, COOKED, PURéED

Steps:

• Snap off ends of asparagus stalks where they break naturally. Discard ends. Peel asparagus. Select 16 of the most uniform and thickest spears and set aside. Cut remaining stalks in half, place in a saucepan of well-salted water and simmer until very tender, about 5 minutes. Drain, and purée in food processor or blender. You should have about 1 1/4 cups.
• Heat oven to 250 degrees. Lightly butter 4 small round ovenproof containers, preferably 3- to 4-ounce size. Porcelain ramekins or custard cups, heatproof glass bowls or tiny nonstick muffin or dariole molds can be used.
• Combine 2/3 cup purée with egg and egg yolks. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to buttered molds. Place molds in a baking dish, and add simmering water to come halfway up sides of molds. Bake 45 minutes or until custards are set and surface is fairly firm to the touch. Remove from oven, leaving molds in water bath.
• While custards bake, cut a 2-inch-long piece from the tip of each reserved asparagus stalk. Cut each tip piece in half lengthwise, place in a saucepan of salted water, bring to a simmer and cook until just tender, about 2 minutes. Drain, and set aside on absorbent paper.
• Using a vegetable peeler, shave 4 or 5 ribbons lengthwise from remaining pieces of stalk, leaving center portion intact. Place ribbons in a bowl of ice water. Mince centers no larger than peppercorns. Fold minced asparagus into remaining purée, and season to taste with salt and pepper.
• Beat vinegar and oil together but not enough to emulsify completely. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add truffles, olive paste or balsamic vinegar, and stir lightly to combine but not blend thoroughly. Vinaigrette should remain somewhat broken.
• To serve, spoon asparagus purée with minced raw asparagus in a circle in center of each of 4 large salad plates. Unmold custards on top of purée. Surround each with 8 cooked halved asparagus tips, cut side down, like spokes of a wheel. Drain raw asparagus ribbons and pat dry. Scatter over cooked tips, and pose one that's nicely curled on each custard. Drizzle vinaigrette on plate around asparagus.