STUFFED SQUASH WITH PRESERVED-LEMON GRAVY

Steps:

• Heat a dry large skillet over high. Cook olives, shaking pan occasionally, until blistered and starting to char, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl.
• Heat 3 Tbsp. oil in same skillet and add red onion, parsnips, and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are charred and slightly softened, 7-9 minutes. Stir in cumin, ginger, and allspice and cook just until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Scrape vegetables into bowl with olives.
• Toast barley in same skillet over medium heat (no need to add more oil), stirring often, until slightly darkened, about 1 minute. Stir in olive brine and cook until evaporated, about 30 seconds. Pour in 2 cups water, bring to a simmer, and cook, uncovered, until water is absorbed, 18-20 minutes (barley will not be fully cooked). Transfer barley to bowl with vegetables. Add figs and apricots and toss stuffing to combine. Do ahead: Stuffing can be made 3 days ahead. Cover and chill.
• Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 375°F. Using a pairing knife, cut out a wide circle around squash stem to create a lid (like preparing a jack-o'-lantern); remove lid. Scrape seeds and strings from squash cavity and bottom of lid with a spoon. Place squash on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet. Using a pastry brush or your hands, coat inside and outside of squash, including lid, with remaining 1 Tbsp. oil (you may need more for a larger squash).
• Season inside and outside of squash with salt. Scoop stuffing into cavity, packing firmly. Replace lid, which should fit snugly. Place any additional stuffing in a ramekin or small baking dish and add ¼ cup water per 1 cup stuffing; cover with foil. Bake squash with any extra stuffing alongside until a knife slides easily through flesh, 70-80 minutes. Remove from oven.
• Reduce oven temperature to 350°F. Toast walnuts on a small rimmed baking sheet, tossing halfway through, until golden brown, 6-8 minutes. Transfer to a plate and let cool, then coarsely chop.
• Cook garlic, oil, preserved lemon paste, and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a medium skillet over medium heat, stirring often, until oil is starting to sizzle gently and garlic is just beginning to brown around edges, about 2 minutes. Whisk in flour and cook, whisking, 30 seconds. Pour in wine, whisking to combine. Then gradually pour in 1½ cups water, whisking to combine. Bring to a simmer and cook, whisking occasionally, until gravy is thick enough to coat a spoon, about 5 minutes. Taste and season with more salt if needed.
• Remove woody stem from top of squash (it should pull off easily) and cut squash into wedges. Using a large sturdy spatula, divide among plates or arrange on a platter and spoon any additional stuffing around. Drizzle gravy over and around, then top with walnuts and herbs.