STEAMED STICKY RICE DUMPLINGS WITH SHRIMP AND PORK

Steamed Sticky Rice Dumplings with Shrimp and Pork image

Whereas fried sticky rice dumplings have their alluring crispy-chewy skins, steamed sticky rice dumplings are as soft and comforting as a well-worn pair of jeans. They retain the charming soft texture and natural sweetness of sticky rice. I grew up break-fasting on Vietnamese bánh ít ("small dumplings"), though they can certainly be a satisfying brunch, lunch, or snack food. Filled with a surf-and-turf mixture of shrimp, pork, and wood ear and shiitake mushrooms, these dumplings are enjoyed warm, dipped in a pool of soy sauce and pepper. The banana leaf imparts a wonderfully tea-like quality to the dumplings during the cooking process. These are easy to make, especially when the filling is prepared a day in advance. Viet cooks often use boiling water to create glutinous rice dough, but the dough is easier to handle and control when cold water is used. I combine two kinds of glutinous rice flour (see page 15) to arrive at a texture that is pleasantly chewy, not overly sticky. The rice flours are available at Asian markets, as is fresh or frozen banana leaf.

Yield makes 12, serving 4 as a light main course, 6 as a snack

Number Of Ingredients 17

Ingredients

1 tablespoon canola oil
1/4 cup finely chopped yellow onion
3 ounces ground pork, fattier kind preferred, coarsely chopped to loosen
1 dried wood ear mushroom, reconstituted (see page 13), trimmed, and finely chopped (about 1 1/2 tablespoons)
2 dried shiitake mushrooms, reconstituted (see page 13), stemmed, and chopped (about 3 tablespoons)
1/4 pound medium shrimp, peeled, deveined, and cut into pea-size pieces (3 1/2 ounces net weight)
1 teaspoon fish sauce
Scant 1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
8 5/8 ounces (1 1/2 cups) Mochiko Blue Star brand glutinous (sweet) rice flour
3 3/8 ounces (3/4 cup) glutinous (sweet) rice flour (select a Thai brand such as Erawan)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons water
12 circles, each 3 1/2 inches in diameter, cut from fresh or thawed, frozen banana leaf, rinsed and wiped dry
Canola oil, for oiling the leaves
Light (regular) soy sauce or Maggi Seasoning Sauce (optional)
Black pepper (optional)

Steps:

To make the filling, heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for 1 to 2 minutes, until soft and fragrant. Add the pork, pressing and poking it to break it up into small pieces. When the pork is halfway cooked, about 1 minute, add the wood ear mushroom, shiitake mushrooms, and shrimp. Stir to combine well, then sprinkle in the fish sauce, salt, and pepper. Continue cooking for 2 to 3 minutes, until the shrimp turns pink. Transfer to a bowl and set aside to cool completely before using. (The filling can be prepared up to 2 days in advance, covered in plastic wrap, refrigerated, and returned to room temperature before use.) You should have about 1 1/2 cups.
To make the dough, stir together the two rice flours and salt. Make a well in the center, pour in the water, and stir with a spatula until a clumpy dough forms. Use your hands to knead the dough into a rough mass. Turn out the dough and all the unincorporated bits onto a work surface and knead with both hands for about 2 minutes, until you have a soft , smooth ball that feels like modeling clay. If needed, add water by the teaspoon or a bit of rice flour (either kind is fine) to achieve the correct consistency. Pinch the finished dough; it should barely stick to your fingers. Shape the finished dough into a log, and then cut it into 12 pieces. Roll each piece into a rough ball and set aside for a moment.
Arrange the banana leaf circles in a single layer on the counter and very lightly brush the top of each with oil to prevent the dumplings from sticking. Have a small bowl of water handy for moistening your fingers.
To form a dumpling, lightly wet your fingertips and then gently press a piece of dough from the center toward the rim to create a 3-inch circle that is slightly thinner at the middle than at the rim; as you press, rotate the dough to make a nice circle. (It is like shaping a tiny pizza.) Gently cup one hand and put the dough circle in that hand, placing it toward the fingertips, which will cradle the dumpling as you shape it. Place a scant 2 tablespoons of filling in the center. Lightly press on the filling with the back of the spoon to create a shallow well; your hand will naturally cup a little tighter. Use your free hand to push and pinch the dough together to completely enclose the filling. You will end up with a 2-inch ball. Pass the ball between your hands a few times to smooth out the surface, and then center it on a banana leaf circle. A bit of lumpiness is fine. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling. Place the dumplings in steamer trays, spacing them 1 inch apart; when using a metal steamer tray, keep the dumplings 1 inch away from the edge, where condensation will collect.
Steam the dumplings over boiling water (see page 17 for guidance) for 15 minutes, or until they have expanded and no longer look chalky. Detach the steamer trays and then use a metal spatula, sliding it under the banana leaf circles, to transfer the dumplings to a cooling rack or serving plate. Let them firm and cool for 5 to 10 minutes, during which time they will shrink slightly, become less sticky to the touch, and form a shiny skin.
Serve these dumplings atop the banana leaf circles and invite guests to use chopsticks or forks to lift them from the leaf (they come off easily); they should set the leaf aside as it is not eaten. The dumplings are good as they are, but they are even tastier dipped in a pool of soy sauce and pepper. Left over dumplings can be stacked and refrigerated in an airtight container for about 5 days. Return them to room temperature before reheating in the steamer for about 3 minutes.