Steps:
- Pat meat dry. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in an 8- to 10-quart heavy pot over medium-high heat until it shimmers, then brown meat in batches (do not crowd), about 5 minutes per batch. Transfer to a platter.
- Cook onion, ginger, white parts of scallions, garlic, and chile in remaining tablespoon oil in same pot over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until browned, about 12 minutes.
- Add water, soy sauce, star anise, cinnamon stick, and meat (with juices) and simmer, covered, until meat is tender but not falling apart, 2 to 21/2 hours.
- Transfer meat with tongs to a cutting board. Discard bones and membranes, then cut meat across the grain into 1/2-inch pieces.
- Strain broth through a sieve lined with a double layer of dampened paper towels set into a large saucepan. Discard solids. Skim off fat. Season broth with salt, then return meat to broth and reheat.
- Meanwhile, add noodles to a 4-quart pot of unsalted boiling water and let stand off heat, covered, until softened, 4 to 8 minutes. Drain and divide among large soup bowls. Add scallion greens and ladle in soup.
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