PAELLA OF THE SEA

Paella of the Sea image

This recipe came to The Times from the chef Chris Schlesinger, who participates in a sort of paella contest on Cape Cod every year. His secret weapon, a deeply flavored slurry of sherry, saffron and other spices, is included here, and don't leave it out. Like all paellas, this dish takes some preparation and time, but is wildly impressive once it reaches the table.

Provided by John Willoughby

Categories dinner, main course

Time 2h

Yield 12 to 16 servings

Number Of Ingredients 24

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Ingredients

6 cups chicken stock
4 cups dry white wine
3 cups clam juice
1 1/2 pounds (about 14 to 18) extra-large shrimp, peeled and deveined, shells reserved
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 pounds pork butt, cut into 1-inch cubes (or substitute pork loin)
1 pound cured chorizo in medium dice (or substitute linguiça or andouille)
2 cups small-dice onion, peels reserved
1/3 cup minced garlic
2 cups crushed tomatoes
4 cups bomba rice (or substitute other short-grained rice)
48 littleneck clams
3 roasted red peppers, peeled and cut into strips, for garnish
1 cup dry sherry
3 tablespoons cumin seeds
3 tablespoons smoked paprika
2 tablespoons fresh thyme
2 bay leaves
1 tablespoon saffron threads
2 cups (about 20) garlic scapes (or substitute scallions)
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
1/2 cup toasted pine nuts
2 tablespoons grated lemon zest

Steps:

Combine the chicken stock, white wine, clam juice, 1 cup water and shrimp shells in a large pot. Add any onion peelings or vegetable scraps left from preparation. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce heat to medium and simmer for 30 minutes, then strain, return the liquid to pot and set aside.
While stock cooks, prepare the secret flavor weapon. Heat the sherry in a small pan until it is just beginning to simmer, then remove from the heat. Add the remaining ingredients, stir well and set aside.
Build a medium-hot fire in grill (when ready, you can hold your hand about 6 inches above the grill for only 2 or 3 seconds).
Prepare the relish. Rub the scapes with about 1 tablespoon olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper and grill until just toasty, about 2 minutes a side. Remove from heat and chop roughly. Combine the scapes with the remaining olive oil, pine nuts and lemon zest, mix well, and set aside.
Put 1/2 cup olive oil in a paella pan or 20-inch camp skillet. Put over the fire and heat until hot but not smoking. Add the pork butt and sausage and brown lightly on both sides, about 6 to 8 minutes total. Add the onions and cook, stirring frequently, until soft, about 3 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and half the stock mixture, bring to simmer, then add the rice and the Secret Flavor Weapon. Stir well to combine, then smooth it out to an even layer (you should have just a layer of liquid between 1/4 and 1/2 inch on top) and allow to come back to a slow simmer.
Push the shrimp and clams down into the simmering mixture so they are covered by the liquid, being careful not to stir the mixture. Move the pan just enough to the side of the fire so the liquid continues to simmer slowly. Add liquid as needed to maintain that very thin visible layer for 20 minutes, but do not move the rice around. After 20 minutes stop adding liquid and continue to cook until all visible liquid is absorbed and rice is tender but not mushy, from 5 to 15 minutes. Remove from fire, lay peppers on top, spoon on the Garlic Scape Relish and serve.