FILIPINO CHICKEN AND EGG BUNS

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Filipino Chicken and Egg Buns image

Nowhere else in Asia has Chinese bāo been embraced and appropriated to the extent that it has been in the Philippines. An extremely popular snack, Filipino siopao tend to be large, sometimes the size of a soft ball. They are filled with all kinds of things, including slightly sweet meat and gravy mixtures (asado siopao), dense meatloaf-like concoctions (bola-bola siopao), and even balut, the beloved partially incubated duck egg. Quite oft en in Filipino meat-filled buns, there's a wedge of boiled egg inside, which is why I've included it in this chicken rendition for a mother-and-child reunion of sorts. Siopao dough can be made from rice flour, which results in superwhite buns, but I prefer wheat-flour buns because they have a chewier texture and more flavor.

Yield makes 12 large buns

Number Of Ingredients 12

2 teaspoons light (regular) soy sauce
2 teaspoons lightly packed light brown sugar
2 teaspoons oyster sauce
1 pinch of salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1 1/2 tablespoons canola oil
2 scallions (white and green parts), chopped
1 large clove garlic, minced
1/2 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into peanut-size pieces
1 tablespoon cornstarch dissolved in 1 1/2 tablespoons water
1 1/4 pounds Basic Yeast Dough (page 92)
2 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and cut lengthwise into 6 wedges each

Steps:

  • To make the filling, in a small bowl, combine the soy sauce, brown sugar, oyster sauce, salt, and pepper. Set these seasonings aside.
  • Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the scallions and garlic, and cook, stirring constantly, for about 30 seconds, or until aromatic and slightly softened. Add the chicken, stir, and add the seasoning mixture. Cook, stirring frequently, for about 2 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through. Give the cornstarch mixture a final stir and add to the chicken. Continue cooking for about 30 seconds, until the filling has thickened. Transfer to a bowl and set aside to cool completely before using. (The filling can be prepared up to 2 days in advance, covered with plastic wrap, and refrigerated. Return to room temperature before using.) There should be a generous cup of filling.
  • Transfer the dough to a very lightly floured work surface, gather it into a ball if needed, and then pat it to flatten it to a thick disk. Cut the disk in half and cover one-half with plastic wrap or an inverted bowl to prevent drying while you work on the other half.
  • Roll the dough into a 12 to 14-inch log, and then cut it into 6 pieces. (Halve the log first to make it easier to cut even-size pieces. The tapered end pieces should be cut a little longer than the rest.) Lightly roll each piece into a ball and then use the palm of one hand to flatten each one into a 1/4-inch-thick disk. Use a wooden dowel-style rolling pin to roll the pieces into circles about 3 3/4 inches in diameter. The rim of each circle should be thinner than the center; keeping a 1 1/2-inch wide belly in the center ensures consistent thickness all over the finished bun. The finished circle will be thick and it will rise as it sits. (For guidance on rolling, see "Forming Wrappers from Basic Dumpling Dough," step 5, page 24.) Lay the finished circles out on your work surface, lightly dusting their bottoms with flour if you fear them sticking.
  • Cut twelve 3 1/2-inch squares of parchment paper and set aside. To assemble the buns, hold a dough circle in a slightly cupped hand. Use a spoon to center 1 1/2 teaspoons of filling on the dough circle, pressing down very gently and keeping about 1/2 to 3/4 inch of the dough clear on all sides; your hand will automatically close slightly. Add a wedge of egg, with the curved side down so that when you gather up the dough, the egg will naturally bend and match the round bun shape. Put 1 tablespoon of filling atop the egg. Use the thumb of the hand cradling the bun to push down the filling while the fingers of the other hand pull up the dough edge and pleat and pinch the rim together to form a closed satchel (see page 52). Completely enclose the filling by pinching and twisting the dough closed. Place the finished bun on a piece of parchment, pleated side down. You can put the bun, still on the parchment paper, directly into a steamer tray or on a baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining dough circles, spacing them 1 inch apart and 1 inch away from the edge to allow the dough to comfortably rise. Cover with the lid or loosely cover with plastic wrap or a kitchen towel. Set in a warm, draft-free place (for example, the oven with the light on) for 30 minutes to rise until nearly doubled. Meanwhile, work on the other dough half to form the remaining buns.
  • About 10 minutes before the rising time is over, ready the water for steaming (see page 17 for guidance on steaming). When the buns have risen, steam them, up to 2 trays at a time, for about 18 minutes, or until they have puffed up and look dry. Remove each tray and use a metal spatula to transfer the buns, on the parchment paper, to a wire rack to cool for 5 minutes. Put more buns on the trays and repeat the steaming, replenishing the water as needed, until all the buns are cooked.
  • Arrange the buns, still on the parchment, on a platter and serve. Remove the parchment before eating the buns out of hand. Refrigerate left over buns and steam them for 6 to 8 minutes to reheat.

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