CALIFORNIA SEA BASS KABOBS WITH EGGPLANT, PEPPERS, AND CHARMOULA

Steps:

• Toast the cumin seeds in a small pan over medium-high heat about 2 minutes, until the seeds release their aroma.
• Using a mortar and pestle, pound the cumin, garlic, and a pinch of salt to a paste. Transfer to a medium bowl. Pound the cilantro and parsley in batches. As each batch of herbs is pounded to a paste, add it to the garlic mixture. Add the paprika and cayenne, and stir well. Put half the mixture in a large bowl or container for marinating the fish, and stir in 1/4 cup olive oil. Gently toss the fish with the herb purée, cover, and refrigerate at least 4 hours.
• Stir the remaining 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil into the remaining herb purée, and refrigerate.
• Light the grill about 30 to 40 minutes before cooking.
• Remove the fish from the refrigerator 30 minutes before cooking, to bring to room temperature. Skewer the chunks of fish, being careful that the pieces on each skewer are a similar thickness and not pressed together too tightly, so they will cook evenly.
• Take the reserved charmoula out of the refrigerator and stir in the rice wine vinegar, lemon juice, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Taste for balance and seasoning.
• When the coals are broken down, red, and glowing, season the skewers of fish with salt and pepper. Grill the fish 3 to 4 minutes, rotating the skewers once, until you have nice color on the first side. Turn the fish over, and cook a few more minutes, until just cooked through. When it's done, the fish will begin to flake and separate a little; the center will still be slightly translucent. Remember, the fish will continue to cook a little more when you take it off the grill.
• Scatter the arugula on a platter. Arrange the marinated peppers and eggplant and all their juices on top. Place the fish kabobs on the peppers and eggplant, and smear some of the charmoula over each kabob. Serve the remaining charmoula on the side.
• Char the peppers on all sides on a medium-hot grill, or on the burners of a gas stove, or in the broiler, until all sides are just blackened (you want to char the skin of the peppers without burning the flesh underneath). Place the peppers in a large paper bag, close it tightly, and let them steam at least 15 minutes. (They sometimes leak, so put the closed bag on a plate.)
• Meanwhile, cut the stems from the eggplants and discard. Like many vegetables, eggplants vary widely in size and shape, so you'll need to use your judgement as you cut them. The goal is to achieve pieces that are roughly the same size, around 2 inches long and 1/4-inch thick, and that show off the natural curve of the eggplant. To begin, cut 1/4-inch slices lengthwise. (Do not cut the eggplant into circles.) If your eggplants are very small, you may be able to stop after this lengthwise slicing. If they're larger, you'll need to cut them again. Place them flat on your cutting board and slice in half across the diagonal. When you're satisfied with your slices, score them shallowly on both sides with a knife (make a cross-hatch of very shallow cuts to increase surface area), sprinkle each with 1/4 teaspoon salt, and let them sit 10 minutes. Use paper towels to blot the water that beads on their surfaces.
• Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 2 minutes. Swirl in 2 tablespoons olive oil, and wait 1 minute. Carefully place some of the eggplant in the pan. (The eggplant shouldn't be crowded; do this in batches or in two large pans.) Drizzle another tablespoon or two of olive oil into the pan, and cook 3 to 4 minutes, until golden brown. If the pan is smoking or the eggplant starts to burn, turn the heat down. Turn the eggplant over, and cook another 2 to 3 minutes, on the second side, until tender and golden. Remove the eggplant to a platter or baking sheet lined with paper towels. Continue until all the eggplant is cooked.
• Open the bag of roasted peppers, and let them cool slightly. Peel each one carefully. Do not run them under water or you will lose all their delicious juices. Work over a strainer set in a bowl to catch the juices. Tear the peppers in half lengthwise, along their natural seam, and remove the seeds and membranes. Cut or tear the peppers into 1-inch-thick strips. Set them aside in the reserved juices.
• Wipe out the eggplant pan, and return it to the stove over high heat for 2 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons olive oil, and sauté the red onion and thyme about 2 minutes. Add the garlic, cook a few more minutes, and then add the peppers and their juices to the pan. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and a pinch of pepper, and cook 6 to 8 minutes, stirring often, until the peppers have caramelized slightly.
• Transfer the peppers and onions to a shallow nonaluminum dish. Add the two vinegars to the pan, and reduce by half over low heat. Turn off the heat, and swirl in 2 tablespoons olive oil. Use a rubber spatula to scrape the oil and vinegar over the peppers. Toss well to combine the flavors.
• Gently toss the eggplant and peppers together and taste for seasoning.
• The peppers and eggplant can be made the day before. Make the charmoula base and marinate the fish in the morning. Add the vinegar and lemon at the last minute.