APRIL BLOOMFIELD'S CLAM CHOWDER

Steps:

• Steam the clams: In a large stockpot, combine the olive oil, onion, garlic, bay leaves and wine. Bring to a simmer and add the clams. Cook covered, until the clams have opened, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat and allow the clams to cool until they can be handled.
• Remove clams from shells, discarding shells and reserving liquid in the pot. Remove the tough foot from each clam, chop finely and place in a bowl. Chop the remaining portion of each clam into medium dice, add to bowl and set aside. Strain cooking liquid through a fine strainer into a separate bowl or pitcher and set aside. You should have as much as 2 quarts.
• Make the chowder: In a medium pot, combine cream, milk and potatoes. Place over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer until potatoes are tender but still keep their shape, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.
• In a large soup pot over medium heat, heat olive oil until almost smoking. Add bacon and sauté until it colors slightly, about 2 minutes. Add carrot, celery stalks and onion, stirring until just tender, about 8 minutes. Stir in clams, then add wine and chiles or pepper flakes. Allow wine to reduce until almost evaporated, then add 4 cups (or as desired) of the reserved clam broth.
• Remove about half the potato mixture from its pot and purée in a food processor or blender. Add purée to the soup pot with vegetables and clams, along with remaining potato mixture. Bring back to a simmer and add corn. Cook until corn is tender but still has snap, about 5 minutes. Add half the celery leaves and half the parsley leaves, and mix well. Season to taste with salt and a squeeze of lemon.
• To serve, ladle into bowls and garnish each with a bit of the remaining parsley and celery leaves, and if desired, a drizzle of olive oil.